Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Tu Reja (1920)

Tu Reja was introduced by Myrurgia in 1920, at a time when the celebrated Barcelona perfume house was rapidly establishing itself as one of Spain's foremost creators of artistic fragrances. Founded in 1916 by Esteban Monegal Prat, Myrurgia distinguished itself by combining fine perfumery with exceptional artistry, often collaborating with renowned illustrators, sculptors, glassmakers, and designers to create perfumes that were as visually captivating as they were fragrant. Unlike many European perfume houses that looked almost exclusively to Paris for inspiration, Myrurgia embraced Spain's own rich cultural heritage. Andalusian gardens, Moorish palaces, flamenco traditions, the paintings of Francisco de Goya, and the romance of historic Spanish cities all became recurring themes in its creations. Fragrances such as Maja, Maderas de Oriente, Suspiro de Granada, and Tu Reja were not merely perfumes—they were fragrant expressions of Spain's art, architecture, and history, earning Myrurgia an international reputation for perfumes infused with unmistakable Spanish character.

The name Tu Reja is Spanish and translates literally as "Your Window Grille." It is pronounced 
Tu Reja (too REH-hah). While the translation may sound unusual to modern English speakers, the phrase carries deep romantic significance in Spanish culture. A reja is an ornate wrought-iron grille fitted over windows and balconies, especially those found throughout Andalusia in cities such as Granada, Córdoba, and Seville. Far more than simple architectural security, these beautifully forged iron grilles became decorative works of art, often overflowing with cascading pots of geraniums, jasmine, carnations, bougainvillea, and climbing roses. They softened the whitewashed façades of Spanish homes with brilliant flowers and intricate iron scrollwork, creating one of the country's most recognizable visual symbols. Traditionally, these flower-filled windows also played an important role in courtship. During evening strolls, a young admirer might pause beneath the reja, serenading or speaking quietly to the young woman inside while the protective iron grille preserved propriety. Countless Spanish poems, songs, and romances celebrate these intimate conversations "at the reja," making it a powerful symbol of longing, romance, anticipation, and quiet devotion.

The words Tu Reja therefore evoke far more than architecture. They conjure warm Andalusian evenings bathed in golden twilight, narrow cobblestone streets perfumed by blooming flowers, distant guitar music drifting through open courtyards, and moonlight illuminating wrought-iron balconies overflowing with blossoms. One imagines lace curtains gently stirring in the warm breeze while fragrant carnations and jasmine spill through the ironwork toward the street below. There is an atmosphere of gentle yearning—a whispered conversation between lovers separated only by an elegant iron lattice. The name suggests intimacy without overt passion, inviting the imagination to linger upon moments of quiet romance rather than dramatic declarations. It is nostalgic, poetic, and unmistakably Spanish, capturing an idealized vision of Granada's timeless beauty.

When Tu Reja appeared in 1920, Europe was emerging from the devastation of the First World War, entering a decade remembered as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age. It was an era defined by optimism, artistic experimentation, technological progress, and dramatic social change. Women increasingly embraced greater personal independence, entering the workforce, enjoying expanded social freedoms, and adopting fashions that reflected a more modern lifestyle. Corsets began disappearing in favor of looser, straighter silhouettes that allowed freedom of movement. Hemlines gradually rose, hair was worn shorter in fashionable bobs, and cosmetics became widely accepted symbols of modern femininity rather than social impropriety. Art Deco was beginning to emerge, bringing with it clean geometry, luxurious materials, and exotic influences drawn from Egypt, Asia, and the Mediterranean. Against this backdrop, perfume became an essential finishing touch—a visible expression of elegance, sophistication, and individuality.

Perfumery during the early 1920s reflected both continuity and innovation. Rich floral bouquets and spicy orientals remained enormously popular, but perfumers were increasingly exploring more abstract compositions made possible through advances in synthetic aroma materials. Carnation fragrances, in particular, enjoyed tremendous popularity during this period because they beautifully bridged classical floral elegance and fashionable spice accords. Chypres, orientals, aldehydic florals, and complex floral bouquets all flourished simultaneously, creating one of perfumery's most creative periods. Consumers were eager for perfumes that suggested travel, romance, and exotic destinations, making Spain—with its Moorish architecture, flamenco traditions, and sun-drenched gardens—a particularly alluring source of inspiration.


image created by Grace Hummel/Cleopatra's Boudoir.



Women encountering Tu Reja in 1920 would likely have understood its romantic symbolism immediately, especially in Spain and throughout much of Europe. The name would have recalled familiar literary and artistic images of lovers meeting beneath flower-filled balconies and exchanging whispered confidences through elaborate wrought-iron grilles. Even women outside Spain would have associated Andalusia with romance, music, passion, and lush gardens thanks to popular opera, literature, travel writing, and paintings depicting Spanish life. Wearing a perfume called Tu Reja allowed a woman to surround herself with that same atmosphere of quiet elegance and refined romance. Rather than presenting herself as boldly seductive, she embodied grace, mystery, and feminine charm—qualities that aligned beautifully with the sophisticated ideals of the period.

Even before experiencing the fragrance itself, the name Tu Reja suggests a perfume woven from the scents of an Andalusian garden drifting through an open window at dusk. Knowing that it is classified as a spicy floral fragrance dominated by carnation, one can almost imagine the fragrance before smelling it. Carnation naturally carries an intriguing blend of soft floral sweetness intertwined with warm clove-like spice, making it an ideal centerpiece for a perfume inspired by old Spanish romance. The seven flowers mentioned in Myrurgia's 1924 advertisement suggest a richly layered floral bouquet blooming behind the iron grille, while the mention of an ambergris base hints at warmth, elegance, and extraordinary refinement. Ambergris was among the most prized ingredients of classical perfumery, lending a soft, radiant, skin-like warmth that allowed floral notes to linger gracefully for hours. Rather than conjuring bright freshness or overt sensuality, the name Tu Reja promises a fragrance of intimate beauty—warm flowers carried on an evening breeze, softened by polished woods, glowing resins, and the gentle mystery of twilight.

In the context of its contemporaries, Tu Reja occupied an appealing middle ground between prevailing fashion and distinctive originality. A spicy floral centered on carnation was certainly in keeping with the tastes of the early 1920s, when rich floral bouquets enhanced with cloves, spices, and warm balsamic bases enjoyed widespread popularity. The use of ambergris likewise reflected the luxurious classical perfumery of the period. However, what distinguished Tu Reja from many competing fragrances was not necessarily its structure, but its unmistakably Spanish identity. While French perfume houses often looked to abstract elegance or distant exotic locales, Myrurgia rooted its inspiration in the architecture, customs, and poetry of its own homeland. The concept of capturing the romance of Andalusian flower-filled window grilles gave the perfume a vivid cultural narrative that elevated it beyond a beautiful floral composition. It was both fashionable and deeply evocative—a fragrance that reflected the prevailing trends of its era while offering wearers an unmistakable sense of place, transforming an ordinary bouquet of flowers into a fragrant love letter to Spain.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Tu Reja is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women with a dominant carnation note. A 1924 ad reads: "Tu Reja, a spicy fragrance with an ambergris base represents seven flowers, comes in a slender bottle encased in the petals of a scarlet flower. Priced $12.00."

  • Top notes: Italian neroli oil, Tunisian orange blossom, Jordanian almond, Moroccan cassie, amyl salicylate, isobutyl phenylacetate, linalool, Algerian jonquil, hyacinthine, clary sage
  • Middle notes: French carnation, Zanzibar cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, caryophyllene, isoeugenol, Bulgarian rose oil, geranyl formate, Riviera jasmine, Manila ylang ylang, Florentine orris, ionone
  • Base notes: heliotropin, Mysore sandalwood, benzyl acetate, terpineol, Hungarian clary sage oil, Tyrolean oakmoss, Tibetan musk, musk ambrette, ambergris, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, amber, Maltese labdanum, benzoin


Scent Profile:


The first impression of Tu Reja is like wandering through a flower-filled Andalusian courtyard at dusk, where fragrant blossoms spill through an ornate wrought-iron balcony overlooking narrow cobblestone streets. The evening air is cool, yet still carries the warmth of the Spanish sun that has bathed the whitewashed walls all afternoon. Every breath reveals another flower blooming from behind the graceful iron reja, while a gentle breeze stirs citrus trees, herbs, and flowering shrubs into a harmonious perfume. Unlike the bright, sparkling florals that would become fashionable decades later, Tu Reja immediately feels romantic and intimate. It does not rush to impress with dazzling freshness, but instead unfolds like a whispered conversation beneath a moonlit balcony, where every floral note reveals itself slowly and gracefully.

The opening begins with the luminous sweetness of Italian neroli oil, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees flourishing under the warm Mediterranean sun of southern Italy. Calabria has long produced some of the world's most prized neroli because its coastal climate creates blossoms exceptionally rich in fragrant oils. Italian neroli possesses a remarkable balance of fresh citrus, green leaves, honey, and delicate white flowers. Compared with neroli produced in North Africa, Italian neroli is often softer, sweeter, and more refined, introducing an immediate sensation of polished elegance. Alongside it blooms Tunisian orange blossom, another product of the bitter orange tree, though distilled slightly differently. Tunisia's warm North African climate produces blossoms with deeper honeyed warmth and creamy floral richness than many European varieties. Whereas neroli sparkles with freshness, orange blossom envelops the senses in velvety sweetness, smelling of white petals warmed by afternoon sunlight with subtle hints of beeswax and nectar.

Unexpectedly, the fragrance introduces the soft nuttiness of Jordanian almond. Almond itself yields no true essential oil suitable for perfumery from the sweet edible nut. Instead, perfumers traditionally recreated its aroma through carefully balanced accords built around benzaldehyde, the natural molecule responsible for the unmistakable scent of almond kernels, marzipan, and cherry pits. Benzaldehyde contributes a sweet, slightly powdery gourmand quality that lends warmth without making the fragrance edible. Here it softens the bright citrus blossoms, giving them an almost velvety texture. 

Beside it blooms Moroccan cassie, harvested from the tiny golden blossoms of Acacia farnesiana. Morocco's dry climate produces cassie absolute of exceptional richness, darker and more leathery than material from India or Egypt. Cassie possesses one of perfumery's most intriguing floral aromas—powdery mimosa, warm leather, violet, hay, honey, and sun-dried flowers—all blending into something simultaneously delicate and mysterious. It quietly hints at the antique elegance that lies beneath the perfume's cheerful opening.

The floral tapestry is enriched further through several remarkable aroma chemicals that were becoming increasingly important to perfumers during the early twentieth century. Amyl salicylate contributes an extraordinarily soft floral warmth reminiscent of orchids, lilies, and sunlit blossoms, acting as an invisible thread that ties the bouquet together while adding remarkable longevity. Isobutyl phenylacetate introduces sweet honeyed fruitiness with nuances of pear, jasmine, and fresh blossoms, making the floral accord feel fuller and more natural. 

Linalool, one of nature's most widespread aromatic molecules, occurs naturally in lavender, rosewood, coriander, and countless flowers, yet it is also produced synthetically in exceptional purity. Smelling fresh, airy, and softly floral with faint citrus and lavender nuances, linalool serves as one of perfumery's great blending materials, giving the composition brightness and lift without calling attention to itself. Perfumers often supplement naturally occurring linalool with synthetic material because it enhances freshness while allowing expensive natural oils to shine even more beautifully.

Adding yet another layer of complexity is Algerian jonquil, one of the most treasured narcissus flowers in classical perfumery. Algeria's Mediterranean climate produces jonquil blossoms with exceptional richness, smelling simultaneously green, narcotic, honeyed, and softly animalic. Jonquil absolute is among perfumery's rarest materials, requiring enormous quantities of flowers for only tiny yields of fragrant extract. 

Beside it appears hyacinthine, a synthetic accord rather than a natural extract. True hyacinths produce almost no commercially useful essential oil, making recreation through chemistry essential. Hyacinthine molecules reproduce the unmistakable scent of fresh hyacinths—green stems, watery petals, cool spring air, and damp garden soil—bringing freshness and realism that no natural extract could provide. Finally, aromatic clary sage introduces an herbal freshness harvested from flowering plants cultivated throughout southern France and the Mediterranean. Rich in linalyl acetate and sclareol, clary sage smells simultaneously herbal, tea-like, slightly fruity, and softly amber-like, gently preparing the transition toward the warmer floral heart.

The heart of Tu Reja is dominated by one of perfumery's most elegant flowers: the magnificent French carnation. During the early twentieth century, the finest carnations used in perfumery were cultivated in southern France around Grasse, where the mild Mediterranean climate allowed the flowers to develop exceptional fragrance. Carnation possesses a fascinating dual personality. At first it smells like fresh velvet petals dusted with powder, but moments later its naturally spicy character begins to emerge, almost indistinguishable from cloves. This extraordinary effect comes largely from eugenol, naturally present within the flower itself. The carnation becomes the living symbol of the Andalusian balcony overflowing with blossoms, at once romantic, graceful, and quietly passionate.

That floral spice is magnified beautifully by Zanzibar cloves, long regarded among the world's finest because the islands' humid tropical climate produces flower buds exceptionally rich in aromatic oils. Clove oil contains extraordinarily high concentrations of eugenol, responsible for its warm, spicy, woody aroma that recalls polished antique furniture, dried flower garlands, and old spice markets.

Complementing it is Ceylon cinnamon, harvested from Sri Lanka, whose true cinnamon possesses a sweeter, softer, and more delicate aroma than the harsher cassia varieties grown elsewhere. Rather than smelling overtly culinary, Ceylon cinnamon contributes warm golden sweetness that wraps around the carnation like silk. Enhancing both ingredients is caryophyllene, a naturally occurring sesquiterpene found in cloves, black pepper, and many spices. It smells woody, peppery, and faintly balsamic, adding remarkable depth beneath the brighter spice notes.

The floral spice is refined even further by isoeugenol, one of the great aroma chemicals of classical perfumery. Closely related to natural eugenol, isoeugenol possesses a smoother, softer, and more floral carnation character than the raw spice itself. It became indispensable during the early twentieth century because it allowed perfumers to recreate carnations with astonishing realism while enhancing the natural flower's spicy warmth. Rather than replacing carnation absolute, isoeugenol magnifies its velvety richness, giving the flower greater projection and longevity than nature alone could provide.

Surrounding this magnificent carnation blooms an exquisite floral bouquet worthy of the 1924 description of "seven flowers." Bulgarian rose oil, harvested from the legendary Valley of Roses near Kazanlak, contributes perhaps the world's finest rose essence. Bulgaria's unique combination of cool nights, gentle morning mists, and mineral-rich soil allows Rosa damascena to develop exceptional concentrations of fragrant molecules including citronellol, geraniol, nerol, and precious damascenones, whose honeyed plum-like nuances create astonishing richness. These natural materials are subtly reinforced with geranyl formate, an aroma chemical contributing sparkling rosy-fruity freshness that makes the natural rose appear even more radiant.

Flowing through the bouquet is luxurious Riviera jasmine, inspired by the famous jasmine grandiflorum cultivated along the Mediterranean coast of France and Italy. Jasmine from this region possesses extraordinary elegance—less indolic than Egyptian jasmine, more luminous than Indian varieties—with notes of apricot, tea, white petals, and warm skin. Beside it blooms creamy Manila ylang-ylang, harvested in the tropical Philippines, whose humid climate produces blossoms rich in benzyl acetate, linalool, and exotic floral esters. Manila ylang-ylang tends to be slightly greener and fresher than the richer oils from the Comoros Islands, making it beautifully suited to balancing Tu Reja's spicy floral heart. 

Completing the bouquet is precious Florentine orris, distilled from iris rhizomes aged for several years in Tuscany. Orris develops its celebrated violet-powder fragrance only after years of slow maturation, when natural irones form within the root. Because genuine orris butter is one of perfumery's most expensive materials, synthetic irones often reinforce it, adding soft violet powderiness while allowing the precious natural extract to shine. Supporting this refined effect is ionone, one of perfumery's revolutionary aroma chemicals. Smelling of violet petals, raspberries, cool woods, and soft powder, ionone gives the bouquet extraordinary elegance while connecting rose, orris, and carnation into a seamless whole.

As evening settles over the imagined Andalusian courtyard, Tu Reja gradually reveals its warm, glowing foundation. The powdery sweetness begins with heliotropin, also known as piperonal, one of the most beloved synthetic materials of classical perfumery. Although inspired by the scent of heliotrope flowers, heliotropin itself smells like almond pastries, vanilla, powdered cosmetics, and soft cherry blossoms. Since heliotrope yields virtually no essential oil suitable for perfumery, heliotropin became indispensable for recreating its comforting fragrance. It merges beautifully with the creamy warmth of Mysore sandalwood, harvested from India's Karnataka forests. Rich in alpha- and beta-santalol, true Mysore sandalwood remains unmatched for its buttery, milky smoothness and serene woody warmth, far creamier than Australian or Pacific sandalwoods.

Additional floral radiance comes from benzyl acetate, naturally abundant in jasmine and ylang-ylang but also synthesized to exceptional purity. Smelling of fresh pear, jasmine blossoms, and sweet white petals, it amplifies the natural floral bouquet while lending beautiful diffusion. Terpineol, with its lilac-like freshness touched by pine needles and citrus blossoms, provides another invisible bridge between flowers and woods. Hungarian clary sage oil, grown in Central Europe's cooler climate, contributes a greener, slightly drier herbal character than Mediterranean clary sage, adding elegant restraint to the increasingly warm base.

The classical chypre structure emerges through Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from oak forests in the Austrian Alps. The cool mountain climate produces moss with remarkable freshness and subtle mineral character, smelling of damp bark, rain-soaked stones, forest floors, and cool green velvet. This elegant woodland quality becomes enveloped by the sensual warmth of Tibetan musk. Historically, this referred to natural musk from the Himalayan musk deer, although even during the 1920s such precious material was extraordinarily rare. Supporting it is musk ambrette, one of the earliest successful synthetic musks, introduced in the late nineteenth century. Musk ambrette possesses a soft powdery warmth with hints of sweet skin, dried flowers, and clean linen, extending the life of the fragrance while making the natural musk feel smoother and more radiant.

Perhaps the most luxurious ingredient of all is ambergris, the legendary marine treasure naturally aged by sun, saltwater, and time. Rather than smelling strongly oceanic, ambergris possesses a wonderfully subtle fragrance of warm skin, mineral salt, sweet tobacco, weathered driftwood, and soft animalic warmth. It serves as an incomparable fixative, allowing the perfume to glow gently for many hours while giving every floral note remarkable radiance. Wrapped around it is creamy Mexican vanilla, whose warm tropical climate produces beans with rich chocolate and spice nuances beyond simple sweetness. Because natural vanilla contains limited quantities of vanillin, perfumers supplement it with purified vanillin crystals, enhancing its creamy gourmand warmth without sacrificing the complexity of the natural extract.

Supporting the vanilla is richly aromatic Venezuelan tonka bean, one of the finest sources of natural coumarin. Tonka beans smell of almonds, freshly cut hay, vanilla, tobacco, and warm caramel. Coumarin itself, first synthesized in the nineteenth century, revolutionized perfumery by allowing this comforting hay-like sweetness to be used with remarkable consistency and longevity. It lends an almost velvety softness to the entire base, making every floral note seem warmer and more enveloping.

Finally, the composition settles upon a magnificent amber accord built from Maltese labdanum and benzoin. Labdanum, gathered from Mediterranean rockrose shrubs growing on the sun-drenched islands of Malta, possesses extraordinary warmth recalling leather, honey, herbs, dried fruits, and glowing amber resin. It forms the backbone of countless classical amber accords. Benzoin, harvested from Styrax trees in Southeast Asia, contributes creamy vanilla, caramel, almond, and warm balsamic sweetness that smooths every transition. Together with ambergris, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, and tonka bean, these resins create a finish that lingers like warm evening air drifting through an ancient flower-covered reja—softly spicy, richly floral, elegantly powdered, and quietly radiant. Tu Reja is not simply a carnation perfume; it is an olfactory portrait of romantic Spain itself, where blossoms climb wrought-iron balconies, music echoes through moonlit streets, and every breeze carries the promise of whispered love stories.


A 1927 Myrurgia ad reads: "Tu Reja = A rich, delicate fragrance that evokes a Seville wrought-iron grille in the height of spring, abloom with flowers."





The New Yorker, 1932: "Myrurgia: A Moi, is new, voluptuous, and fun. They do perfumes that are Spanish without being too much so: Suspiro de Granada (sandalwoody), Tu Reja (carnation), and Joya, to mention only a few.

Bottle:



The presentation of Tu Reja was as imaginative and romantic as the fragrance itself, transforming the perfume into a small work of decorative art that immediately evoked the flower-filled balconies of Spain from which it took its name. Rather than being housed in a conventional bottle alone, the parfum was presented in a graceful, slender glass flacon enveloped within an elaborate handcrafted covering of organdy and wool, fashioned into the form of a fully opened scarlet carnation with layered petals embracing the bottle. The delicate organdy imparted an airy, translucent quality reminiscent of the ruffled texture of real carnation petals, while the soft wool added richness, depth, and lifelike dimension. The vivid crimson flower was more than a decorative novelty—it served as a visual expression of the perfume's dominant carnation note, allowing the wearer to experience the fragrance's floral identity before the stopper was ever removed. Resting in the hand, the presentation resembled a freshly gathered blossom rather than a bottle of perfume, reinforcing Myrurgia's reputation for combining artistry with perfumery in imaginative and memorable ways.

A 1924 advertisement beautifully captured both the fragrance and its remarkable presentation: "Tu Reja, a spicy fragrance with an ambergris base represents seven flowers, comes in a slender bottle encased in the petals of a scarlet flower. Priced $12.00." This poetic description emphasized that the bottle itself formed part of the perfume's narrative, with the scarlet carnation symbolizing the lush floral abundance suggested by the "seven flowers" of the composition. The richly colored petals echoed the romantic image of carnations blooming behind the ornate wrought-iron rejas of Andalusian balconies, while the elegant glass flacon hidden within suggested the treasured secret waiting to be discovered at the flower's heart. In an era when luxury perfumes were increasingly presented as objets d'art, Tu Reja stood apart through its theatrical yet tasteful packaging, offering not merely a fragrance but an experience that celebrated Spanish romance, craftsmanship, and the enduring beauty of flowers in bloom.



Fate of the Fragrance:



The exact date that Tu Reja was discontinued has not been documented, although period advertisements and retail listings confirm that it was still being sold in 1933, more than a decade after its introduction in 1920. Its continued availability suggests that the fragrance enjoyed enduring popularity during the 1920s and early 1930s, appealing to women who admired its romantic Spanish inspiration and elegant spicy floral character centered on carnation. At some point thereafter, Tu Reja quietly disappeared from Myrurgia's catalog, likely as changing fashions and evolving perfume tastes gave way to newer compositions. 

Today, surviving examples are exceptionally scarce, particularly complete presentations retaining the distinctive flower-covered bottle and original packaging. Because the delicate organdy and wool floral coverings were easily damaged or discarded over time, intact bottles have become extraordinarily rare. As a result, Tu Reja is now highly prized by collectors of vintage perfumes and Myrurgia memorabilia, not only for the fragrance's historical significance but also for its imaginative presentation, which remains one of the most charming and unconventional bottle designs produced during the golden age of artistic perfumery.